This was a family holiday, 3 generations for my (Una’s) family. There was also a reunion with Béatrice, my pen pal since 1982. Brittany holds a special place in my heart as it was where we went for our first family holiday abroad in 1983. There were subsequent holidays with the Fitzsimons family and many happy memories of this region. It was a delight to discover it all again.
We rented a large house in the town of Audierne in Finistère. After 1 week, we (David and Una ) had 3 days in an apartment in St Malo.
We had long sunny days with wide blue skies. We passed blue shuttered stone cottages called Ty- or Ker-. A land of hydrangeas, crepes, galettes and cider. Breton nationalism, Celtic connections. A place of all things Breizh, cola from the Phare Ouest. Butter biscuits and bright tins of sardines piled high. Small gariguette strawberries and fresh fish from the market. It was a relaxed holiday for hammocks, bikes, kayaks, and a guitar. Coastal walks and evening swims- even with a harbour seal.
Brilliant and unusual dinner at Les Bouchons.
Time spent mesmerised in French supermarkets or trying far Breton and kouig amann from the local bakery. The beautiful unspoilt coast of fine white sand and clear blue sea. We walked along the Crozon coastal path or locally from lighthouse to lighthouse.
Strolled around Quimper and took a boat ride in Pont-Aven. Dodged the rain with galettes in Locronan. Read stories about kerrigans and sirens of the sea. Remembered Sylvia Plath and the Finistere poem. We wore striped tops from Amor Lux and played boules. We consumed a lot of salted butter, rose wine and chocolate mousse.
“These are our crêpes. Eat them before they blow cold”
The second weekend was St Malo, a city of pirates and anti-authority history. Where traditionally people were Maloian first, Breton maybe and French last. A city grown up on plundered wealth and rum from the Americas. Dominated by the tides which leap over walls and deposit red seaweed. We were mesmerised by the WW2 history, the wide beaches and the light. We ate well in the town at Brasserie Sillon and Restaurant Le Cap Horn. Hiked at le Cap des Chevrets and breathed in the sea air. I was reading “All the Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr.
McTernan 